Seasonal celebrations throughout the year are by their nature very wasteful in their celebration of feasting and excess. How can we as mindful consumers still enjoy these celebrations without contributing to landfill, carbon emissions, habitat loss other ethical problems?
EGGS Unless you are religious, eggs and more specifically chocolate eggs are what Easter is about for most people. However, most Easter eggs are packaged in plastic and so the average child receiving eggs from their family members will accumulate quite a pile of plastic waste as a result. There are many alternatives to these including making your own with chocolate moulds, making your own papier mache eggs or using cardboard, tin or wooden refillable eggs. You could even re-use something you already have like used Kinder Egg eggs or get something second-hand instead of buying anything new as this is significantly lower impact. If you are buying pre-made branded eggs then consider what it is you want to be eco/ethical about. There are some better options around that are either dairy-free, organic, fairtrade or palm oil free, but most are not all of the above. Please remember to recycle all packaging properly including the foil if this is your choice. Here and here are guides to some of the most ethical. FILLINGS If you are using refillable eggs or putting together an Easter basket or egg hunt you will need extra treats too. If you are trying to steer away from the sugar overload that is Easter, then consider small wooden toys like the ones in my eco gift guide. Second hand shops would also be a good way to pick up small toys cheaply. Otherwise taking your own reusable containers to a sweet shop or a pick and mix area at your local supermarket will avoid all the extra packaging of mini eggs and the like. BASKETS Avoid buying plastic baskets, but if you already have one use it rather than replacing with something else as this is just waste in itself. Great plastic alternatives are traditional wicker baskets which you can often get from florists or online. They can be lined with straw, real grass or foliage, shredded paper from your recycling bin or scrap cotton fabric and ribbon. Once children have grown out of using these they can be reused for all sorts of things including gift hampers. Wire, felt or paper baskets or tin buckets are also a good cheap option and can be decorated by the kids to personalise them or do versions for the adults with gardening or pampering things. You could even use an up-turned Easter bonnet if you have one, so getting double the use! DECORATIONS Use nature as inspiration for creating your own decorations out of twigs, ribbons, hand dyed eggs and spring flowers. You can find ideas here and here on my Pinterest boards. Get your children involved with crafting chicks and bunnies out of scrap wool and fabric. Scouring your local second hand shops after Easter you will often pick up some bargains ready for the following year. Beautiful vignettes can be created out of all of these and other things you have around your home such as vases of flowers, lanterns and Easter goodies. Florist wreath frames can be decorated with fresh foliage and flowers and then used again with winter foliage at Christmas. Wishing you all a happy and ethical Easter x #ecoeaster #ethicaleaster #zerowaste Related Posts My Zero Waste Update How to have an Green & Ethical Christmas
Products made in Britain will most often demand a high price point, including British-made fashion. So why pay that extra cost? Is it worth that higher price?
Quality Considering the industrial revolution and clothing manufacture began in Britain, it is not surprising that we are known around the world for producing high quality goods. Making simple, quality items is what we do best. John Smedley, for example, are the longest running factory in the world who still make beautiful, fine gauge knitwear just as they have done for hundreds of years. Ethics Not all British factories are run ethically, it has to be said, but the majority of them are. Having a short supply chain makes it far easier for designers or brands to work closely with their makers to ensure ethical policies are adhered to. Britain also has high legal standards on workers’ rights, health and safety in the workplace and wage level minimums in comparison to other garment producing countries. Ethical credentials should always be checked and good brands will proudly show them. Fashion Miles Being close to the manufacturing base means significantly fewer miles are clocked up in shipping fabrics and goods around. This is evident in the example of Private White VC, 90% of their raw materials are sourced within a 40 miles of their factory. Road haulage for transportation also means less carbon emitted than sea or air cargo too. Global brands who manufacture off-shore in the far-east will have to fly regularly to oversee factory production, thereby further adding to their carbon footprint. Local production also means less waste is also produced due to being able to turn around stock much quicker. Great design Britain has produced many great designers and among them Vivienne Westwood, Mary Quant and Paul Smith have a unique ‘Britishness’. This is often expressed with quirkiness and sense of humour that you don’t often find anywhere else. On the other hand designer brands such as Burberry and Stella McCartney offer the more aspirational side of British design classics. This is also embodied in British icons of design such as the Mini, Rolls Royce and even Dyson. Strong story Providence and a strong story are often a big part of what a British brand is about. Hiut denim & HebTroCo are great examples of this. They both brought manufacturing back to the area they are from before it disappeared forever and produce quality pieces made to last using traditional techniques and preserving local skills and economies. What started as personal missions with a passion for their local communities are now highly successful and acclaimed businesses with a real personal touch. Heritage Britain has a rich textile heritage that many brands draw from including the production of high quality cloths such as tweed, linen and tartan. There are many regional areas that have historical or even current links to fashion & textile manufacturing. From lace making in Nottingham, to knitwear in Hawick, Scotland, from shoe making in Northampton, to woollen cloth in Yorkshire, Britain has it all . All this put together means you are often buying a product with real authenticity, that will last a long time and could sell well at a later date. What could be better slow fashion than that? NB. Boy Wonder is of course proudly made in Britain for all the reasons above. Be aware, however, that many brands portray themselves as being British by putting a Union Jack on their products whilst not actually making them in Britain at all. You can find lots of lovely British-made brands including ourselves in the Make it British directory here. Do you have a favourite made in Britain brand? Do you buy British? What does British made mean to you? We would love to hear from you x Related Posts Trouser Town Made in Britain How Ethical is Made in Britain? *Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links in the post above may be “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will add value to my readers. #madeinbritain #britishdesign #fashionmiles
Further Reading
https://fashioninsiders.co/features/opinion/made-in-england-buy-british/ https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jan/30/british-made-fashion-clothing-manufacture https://www.fashionbeans.com/2015/made-in-britain-menswear/ https://www.shortlist.com/style/fashion/10-british-made-menswear-brands-that-deserve-a-place-in-your-wardrobe/28167 https://www.marketingtochina.com/5-uk-brands-that-benefit-from-being-made-in-britain-in-china/ https://cebr.com/reports/value-of-made-in-britain/ http://www.brandquarterly.com/brand-identity-value-made-britain-label http://fabrikbrands.com/made-in-britain-british-brands/ https://makeitbritish.co.uk/opinion/manufacture-your-product-in-the-uk/ https://makeitbritish.co.uk/uk-manufacturing-2/why-manufacturing-in-the-uk-is-more-sustainable/
Last Friday, I was very proud to march in London alongside the Boy Wonder (and my mum) in the Global Youth Climate Strike. It had a profound effect on me. Being surrounded by 20,000 passionate young people, many finding their voices and realising their own agency for the first time was awe inspiring. The kids really ‘get it’ in a way a lot of the adults just can’t, but it’s time for us all to wake up. The energy and power of the event must gain momentum. The experience has galvanised me to want to do more to help save the planet. Because ,this not just about the planet's survival, but ours too. Large scale communal protest and peaceful demonstration is one really important way to get involved, but what else can we all do?
INSPIRE Make individual changes in your own life, such as reducing meat and dairy in your diet (or going vegan if you can), switching to a green energy provider, tree planting, divesting your bank accounts & pension funds, getting an electric car and consuming & flying less. All these actions are small in comparison to the total system change we need, but they do inspire and influence others to do the same and create a demand for a greener society. However, making people feel guilty about not so green decisions will not get them on your side, they will just get defensive. So inspire and inform people instead by telling them the reasons why these things matter to you or the story that lead you to change. EDUCATE Climate change is not something that is in the distant future, it happening right now and a lot faster than we thought. We all need to educate ourselves much better on what will happen if we don't act soon. Then we need to spread this message to everyone we know and challenge denialists and delayers. Reach out to them by telling them how it will affect them directly and what matters to them most, be that their children or their income. There are many great books, articles and interviews with experts which are not overly scientific or full of jargon. I attach links to these below. Collective denial and complacency, even from some within the green movement, have held us back for too long, now is the time to learn about the stark reality we are facing. LOBBY The news media has so much influence on all of our opinion forming and indeed on our politics. They should follow a moral duty to inform everyone on the apocalyptic nature of runaway climate change. Sadly, most print media don't do this, due to being beholden to advertisers or owned by powerful people invested in the status quo. However, there are many independent media companies who have fewer constraints that we would be better off patronising. Public service broadcasters, like the BBC, who do not have advertisers are a good target for public pressure in getting the climate reality message out there. They are answerable to us as license fee payers and their complaints system can be used to tell them we won’t tolerate them broadcasting climate deniers as they have often been known to do. Petitions, letters and visit to MPs are also a way to do this although I’m not entirely convinced if they work. However, petitioning your MP, government, town and district councils to declare a climate emergency would start some important ground level action that could be beneficial. Social media can also be an effective way get your network on board too. VOTE Never before has your vote mattered so much, the world’s fate literally depends on it. Democracy is a flawed system, but we need to elect people into power who can change things from the top - and fast. Candidates need to show evidence of real commitment and strong policies for change rather than the usual greenwashing. If our parliamentary representatives do not act in our best interest, they can be legally challenged as failing in their duty. The UK government is currently fighting a court battle with activists who are against the proposed 3rd runway at Heathrow airport. The emissions target that the UK signed at the Paris Climate Accord simply cannot be met with this airport expansion. There are possible challenges that could also be made similar to the ones in the US, Ireland, the Netherlands and France on climate change itself. Legal action against the companies that have caused over 2 thirds of climate change has already begun with Exxon Mobil, (who have known about climate change since the 1970’s.) BP & Shell, amongst others. $1 billion has been spent since 2015 by the 5 largest fossil fuel giants in lobbying and climate denial misinformation. Boycotting these eco-vandals is a vote with your wallet and a stand against impending ecocide. ACT Get involved with environmental groups such as Friends of the Earth, 350.org or Greenpeace by volunteering or donating. If you feel you can go further, then a direct action group such as Extinction Rebellion, who use peaceful civil disobedience such as blocking highways, will have the most direct impact. Collective group pressure is much more powerful and demands greater press attention and public exposure than any small individual act can ever do. Come along and join the next climate march with us and feel that power for yourself, and you will know that you did all you could to help save the planet for future generations. If you have any thoughts on this or any suggestions for further reading and viewing please let me know. We love to hear your thoughts x #savetheplanet #youthclimatestrike #extinctionrebellion Related Posts Kids Fight for the Climate How to Stay Climate Positive How to Raise Eco Kids People Power
YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE THIS:
YouTube interview with Dr David Suzuki YouTube - Scientists Warning - Deep Adaptation YouTube - David Attenborough YouTube - Greta & Svante Thunberg YouTube - Radio Interview with Naomi Klein YouTube - Michael Mann Climate Expert https://campaigncc.org/climateemergency.shtml https://neweconomics.org/2018/07/climate-breakdown-where-is-the-left https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/mar/05/climate-breakdown-uk-greener-new-deal-cap-consumption https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/mar/04/climate-change-emergency-westminster https://greenworld.org.uk/article/climate-breakdown-civilisation-breakdown https://www.independent.co.uk/voices/uk-weather-heatwave-climate-change-global-warming-february-met-office-a8797136.html https://climateemergencydeclaration.org https://royalsociety.org/topics-policy/energy-environment-climate/topic/ https://davidsuzuki.org/our-work/climate-solutions/ Drawdown by Paul Hawken The Madhouse Effect by Michael Mann Storms of My Grandchildren: The truth about the Coming Climate Catastrophe and Our Last Chance to Save Humanity by James Hensen This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs The Climate by Naomi Klein How Did We Get Into This Mess by George Monbiot The Uninhabitable Earth by David Wallace- Wells
Spring is on it's way, bringing with it April showers and unpredictable British weather. So, here are our top picks of sustainable kids rainwear that will make you and your child smile and feel good on even the greyest of days.
I would have loved to have added some eco kids brollies here too but haven't been able to find any. Please let me know if come across any x
This week has seen the publication of the Environmental Audit Committee's report on 'Fixing Fast Fashion'[i]. As this committee comprised of members of the UK parliament, it will hopefully lead to effective legislation in tackling sustainability and ethical issues in the industry. Many British retailers, designers, campaigners and educators gave evidence at the hearings on the various issues involved which have provided the basis for the report. The report focuses on 16 UK retailers and provides a table which rates them in terms of engagement with the issues covered in the hearing. The 6 brands at the bottom of the ratings are doing very little to tackle the ethical and environmental impact of their products and business. For ease of comparison in this blog I have converted the table into points.
There are many different sustainability actions that a fashion brand could be doing. In the table these ranged from using organic or sustainable cotton, implementing ‘take back’ schemes and using recycled materials in their products. The majority of the brands at the top of table (ASOS, M&S, Burberry, Tesco & Primark) were doing all of these important actions whereas the bottom 6 were hardly doing any.. There are also various Sustainability Initiatives that brands can sign up to such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Commitment to Climate Change Risk Reporting and Make Fashion Circular. The 6 bottom brands, bar one, have only committed to the reuse or recycling of unsold stock (presumably because they can make a profit out of it.) The final area the report has in the table is Labour Market Initiatives, including being a member of SEDEX (Supplier Ethical Data Exchange) which four out of the five were and membership of the ETI (Ethical Trading Initiative) which only one was. SPORTS DIRECT INTERNATIONAL PLC. (4 POINTS) Coming least worst is no great accolade, but hardly surprising for a company whose business model is to ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’[ii] and who were found in 2013 to be ‘the least ethical big firm in the UK’[iii] by the Observer magazine. They have since been in and out of the press for worker mistreatment[iv] and paying below the minimum wage[v]. Sports Direct managed to cover only one sustainability action; that they do use recycled materials in their produce. They did have some initiatives in place including: Commitment to Climate Change risk reporting, microfiber initiative and the reuse or recycling of unsold stock. They are also only signed up to one out of the 3 Labour market initiatives, namely being a member of SEDEX. The company were also given 13 out of 100 in the Fashion Transparency Index by Fashion Revolution[vi]. BOOHOO GROUP (3 POINTS) Boohoo’s price points are famously low, with some dresses selling for £5 at full price. At the hearings this provoked the question of how it can be possible to pay the national minimum wage with such prices. The company claimed they were loss leading products to draw the customers in. Unethical working conditions were also unsurprisingly uncovered at Boohoo in a Channel 4 Dispatches programme[vii] The Audit committee’s report urged the company to engage with USDAW (Union of Shop, Distributive and Allied Workers) to tackle some of these problems The report also showed that they do use recycled materials in their produce , are a member of SEDEX (Supplier Ethical Data Exchange) and reuse or recycling of unsold stock. Boohoo was also given an F grade in the Behind the Barcode report[viii] and a D grade in the Ethical Fashion Report[ix]. MISSGUIDED LTD. (3 POINTS) Missguided describe themselves as ‘rapid’ fashion[x] , where samples can be turned around in a day and stock updated on the site every week. This ‘fast fashion on steroids’[xi] is incredibly harmful to the environment due to sheer volume and perceived disposability. However another problem it can create is the violent treatment of workers when they are seen as commodities rather than human beings. This was evidenced in the report by the shocking treatment of Missguided’s auditors by certain factories bosses in Leicester. In the Audit Committee’s table they are the only one of the 6 that is a member of the ETI whose base code covers labour standards and are also members of SEDEX and do reuse or recycle unsold stock. AMAZON UK (2 POINTS) Amazon is well known for it’s poor ethics[xii] and their tax avoidance[xiii] is legendary. They only have two points in the Audit committee’s table for being a member of SEDEX (Supplier Ethical Data Exchange) and for the reuse or recycling of unsold stock. They were given 10 out of 100 in the Fashion Transparency Index and appeared in the Global Exchange’s list of ‘Top 10 Corporate Criminal of the Year 2017’[xiv]. I don’t think I need to write more on this. As the biggest retailer in the universe, we all know why we should avoid them. If not, you don’t have to look far to find out why. Ethical Consumer Magazine gave Amazon clothing a very generous score of zero out of 20! TK MAXX (2 POINTS) TK Maxx do reuse or recycle unsold stock and have an in-store take back scheme or recycle banks. But Ethical Consumer Magazine gave them a score of only 4.5 out of 20. JD SPORTS FASHION PLC (1 POINT) At the bottom of the pile comes the sportswear retailer JD Sports. The most they can manage is to reuse or recycle unsold stock. This brand has also been in the press for poor working conditions[xv] too. To put into perspective how little the worst brands are doing, the brands at the top of the table were all awarded 11 out of a possible 13 points. So next time you think of getting a bargain from any of these losing 6, maybe think again. Maybe reconsider if you even really need anything? Could you borrow or swap something instead? Or maybe you even have something suitable already lurking at the back of your wardrobe. Related Posts 5 most Ethical British High Street Brands Top 5 Ethical Kids brands #Environmentalauditcommittee #fixingfashion #britishbrands
Further reading
[i] https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/1952/report-summary.html [ii] https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/markets/marketreport/10650087/Market-Report-Sports-Direct-piles-higher.html [iii] http://www.thejournal.co.uk/business/business-news/sports-direct-least-ethical-big-4517118 [iv]https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/sports-direct-mike-ashley-worker-conditions-minimum-wage-ian-wright-investigation-a7149971.html [v] https://www.theguardian.com/business/2017/mar/28/sports-direct-workers-yet-to-receive-backpay-transline-mps-told [vi] https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fr_fashiontransparencyindex2018 [vii] https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/kieron-hardman/boo-hoo-dispatches_b_14511960.html [viii] https://baptistworldaid.org.au/resources/2018-ethical-fashion-guide/ [ix] https://globalexchange.org/campaigns/corporatecriminals2017/ [x] https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/apr/07/fast-fashion-online-labels-boohoo-missguided [xi] https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/apr/07/fast-fashion-online-labels-boohoo-missguided [xii] https://www.ethics.net/a/high-tech-cruelty-inside-amazon-s-heartless-and-unethical-workplace [xiii] https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2017/aug/10/amazon-uk-halves-its-corporation-tax-to-74m-as-sales-soar-to-7bn [xiv] https://baptistworldaid.org.au/faith-in-action/behind-the-barcode/ [xv] https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/jd-sports-working-conditions-channel-4-minimum-wage-sports-direct-a7476366.html
Some of you might have noticed that something is happening. And it’s truly amazing. Kids all over the world are taking action over climate change. They have enough of standing by waiting for the grown-ups to do the right thing and are taking charge.
Greta Thunberg is the 16 year old Swedish girl you might have heard of for doing just that. She has been on strike from school since last summer in protest over global inaction and has inspired many other school children around the globe to do the same. "Why should I be studying for a future that soon may be no more?”[i] In Brussels last week, tens of thousands marched, as did kids in Germany, France, Sweden, Switzerland, Australia and America. In French cities recently there were more youth climate activists than there had been ‘yellow vest’ protestors the day before[ii]. The movement is spreading rapidly and gaining traction. Greta has appeared recently as a speaker at the UN and at Davos where she berated the billionaires who had turned up in their private jets in no uncertain terms. "Adults keep saying we owe it to the young people to give them hope. But I don't want your hope, I don't want you to be hopeful. I want you to panic, I want you to feel the fear I feel every day. And then I want you to act, I want you to act as if you would in a crisis.”[iii] We have been told by the world’s top scientists that we have 12 years to change our ways and prevent runaway, catastrophe climate disaster. To most children it is obvious what we need to do and they are fed up of being told by adults that it’s more complicated than they think. It is their future we are destroying as they and their children will be affected by it. They see the powers that be are stuck in apathy, complacency and worse still in hock to the oil and coal industry. “We children shouldn’t have to do this. But since almost no one is doing anything, and our very future is at risk, we feel like we have to continue.”[iv] At the UN climate talks in Poland last year, a delegation of the Youth Climate Movement made their presence known. These talks have been taking place for 24 years and every target that has been set has been missed. Victoria Barrett, 19, has been campaigning about climate change for five years and spoke at the United Nations General Assembly about youth involvement in its sustainable development goals “What will be the catalyst for people in power to do what is right? …. Do we have to be stealing a livable planet from people not even born yet? How many millions of people will have to die from climate damage such as drought, famine, superstorms and wildfires before world leaders commit to implementing real solutions to defeat this crisis?”[v] These strong and eloquent young people are speaking truth to power where many adults won’t while others dismiss them as naive. In America youth activists targeted, Speaker of the House, Nancy Pelosi’s Washington DC office to demand change[vi]. The Sunrise Movement and Justice Democrats group were arrested for a sit-in over the Green New Deal. While the Juliana vs. US climate lawsuit[vii] which was filed by young Americans for ‘failing to protect it’s citizens from climate change’ has sadly recently been denied reconsideration by the judge. The first UK wide youth strike for climate will take place on February 15th 2019 in major cities, followed by a global youth strike on March 15th. Do you think we should listen to the kids? Will you and your children be there? We are certainly considering it even though I think maybe the Boy Wonder is still bit young at 8 years old. Related Posts How to stay Climate Positive How to Raise Eco Kids People Power #strike4climateaction #climatestrike #schoolstrike #fridaysforfuture #fff
Further reading
[i]https://www.teenvogue.com/story/15-year-old-activist-greta-thunberg-schooled-world-leaders-climate-change-united-nations-summit [ii] https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/31/world/europe/climate-change-protests-students.html [iii]https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/jan/25/our-house-is-on-fire-greta-thunberg16-urges-leaders-to-act-on-climate [iv] https://www.facebook.com/732846497083173/posts/767646880269801/ [v] https://www.theguardian.com/science/2018/dec/14/climate-change-young-people-cop24-conference [vi]https://www.commondreams.org/news/2018/11/13/backed-ocasio-cortez-youth-climate-activists-arrested-pelosis-office-demanding [vii] http://www.thegwpf.com/u-s-court-rules-against-young-climate-activists/
You may have read my New Year post last year where I stated my aims to go reduce my waste and have toxic free home. As most of you may find, some resolutions work better than others.
Going completely zero waste was not my aim, but putting waste foremost in your mind can really help to change your habits. I will be honest, at times it wasn't easy. Sometimes I forgot my own produce bags or reusable cup and often I just couldn't get what I needed without all the pointless packaging. It’s not easy on a very limited budget too so I had done what I can. However, it has made a real difference and I’m really happy about that. When I first went to the supermarkets with my reusable produce bags proudly in hand, I was genuinely surprised (and disappointed) at how little fruit and veg was available without all the plastic. Not only that, but the unpackaged produce was more expensive. This has to change to encourage people to make the switch, so I welcome the government’s plans to make the retailers rethink packaging. However, although things are changing (mainly due consumer pressure) any legislation will likely be a while in coming so we could all do with rethinking our shopping. Frustration at the lack of unpackaged produce led me to my local green grocers. Again, this has been a slightly more expensive option, but it does mean I am supporting local small business and helping to keep our high street alive as well. They now know me well in there as I always untie their plastic bags of fruit to put into my own reusable bags. In fact, this has spurred them on to remove all their plastic bags from inside their shop, which shows that even my small actions have had an effect. I have noticed from becoming more aware of my waste that there is a lot more you can recycle than you think. Always check on the back of any plastic packaging as it should tell you. Some plastic packaging can be recycled along with shopping bags at larger supermarkets. Try to avoid black plastic though (these are often food trays) as these cannot be recycled at all. I also did a waste bin audit which helped me find areas I could improve on. This involved tipping out my rubbish bin on the lawn and rifling through it (washing up gloves are advised!) Luckily, as I compost all food waste, my bin only contains dry rubbish - which also means I don't use a bin bag either. This exercise made my snacking more apparent, as was my use of microwave rice, both of which I have reduced to bring my waste down further. Becoming fully vegan also had to added benefit of adding more whole food items in my diet which have no or less packaging. I spent some time unsubscribing from unwanted catalogues, phonebooks and direct mail campaigns (junk mail) and switching to paperless billing. There are several ways you can stop receiving unsolicited post, but I have to say this has not be successful. Even sticking a sign on my front door has not stopped the deluge of charity bags, flyers and menus from coming through the letterbox. Reducing consumption of ‘stuff’ in general and buying second-hand has a real impact not just on waste produced but on saving the earth’s dwindling resources. Not to mention the money it saves. I am even looking at getting parts to fix my old hoover myself rather than getting a new one. I have invested in a some new, reusable products such as a silicone mat to replace tin foil, washable cloth sandwich bags & make-up pads and kishu charcoal stick instead of water filter cartridges. I have put together a useful list of swaps and changes here and there are lots of ideas on my Pinterest board here. Overall, my efforts have meant that I have gone from putting out my household waste bin every month (there is only two of us, admittedly) to only twice this year and my recycling has gone from every fortnight to once a month or every six weeks. I aim to reduce this down further next year by purchasing some goods from a bulk buy merchant and by making more of my own food, including bread! My aim to make my own cleaning products however, was not such a success story. I found that the recipes I tried for various things, including bathroom & toilet cleaners, shower gel and hand wash did not work at all well. I guess that If I had more time I could try out different recipes and would find ones that do work well. I ended up using more of the product with worse results and it took a longer to research, make them and clean with than I had thought. Maybe this is something I will come back to now I have all the staple ingredients, but in the meantime I shall use non-toxic brands such as Ecover and Method instead. Going forward into the New Year I plan to grow some of our own food and make my own bread but mostly to build on what I have done so far and further reduce our overall consumption of goods. From what friends and family have told me I have already influenced some of them to adopt new habits so hopefully you can too and help bring about a less wasteful 2019! Let me know what your plans are to reduce your waste too. Happy New Year to you all x #zerowaste #newyear #pointlessplastic
Since I have started blogging and setting up the brand various people have asked me where is best place to shop for clothes? They are not asking about expensive ethical and eco brands but the shops that we can all find on the British high street. I always add to these conversations that it's better to buy second-hand or save up for an investment ethical piece than shop on the high street, but I do know that sometimes that's not possible. So, I have spent a long time researching and compiling a database to be able to provide the answer to this question for them and you; my lovely readers.
There are various consumer information sites that provide ethical and sustainability ratings on fashion brands. These include Ethical Consumer Magazine, the Good Shopping Guide and Rankabrand (who I have mentioned in a previous blog). They investigate brands and give them a score for different categories from how transparent they are through to whether they use renewable energy. The Ethical Consumer Magazine appears to be more well-established, with years of research behind them and seems more thorough in their critical appraisals. Rankabrand is mainly focused on German and Dutch brands but does feature some of the larger British companies. However, they all suggest quite different brands as being the best and all have a slightly focus. These can be useful to look at simply to find out more information about your favourite brands but they all seem to have certain bizarre anomalies. I suspect this come from different ways of measuring and applying data but these anomalies make me feel slightly unsure about them. For instance the Good Shopping Guide rates River Island at 73, which is the same rating they give to Patagonia (one of the most environmentally conscious brands there are) and rates Fat Face even higher at 81, which from my research over the years I cannot agree with. There are also many reports by groups such as the Clean Clothes Campaign, Fashion Revolution and Greenpeace investigating whether brands actually live up to their commitments. These help to build a bigger picture to inform my decisions. I used the comparison sites to help me create my own methodology with which to judge them by. I used many different markers to establish ranking, including being signatories to the Bangladesh Fire & Safety Accord, pledging to ZDHC (zero discharge of hazardous chemicals) and 'take back' schemes such as M&S's shwopping. There are far too many separate factors and areas I looked at to mention in full here, so I will simply give an overall summary on my findings. In this comparison I have focused solely on British fashion retailers and not included supermarkets. This amounted to 15 different brands, including 3 department stores, and one online-only retailer. For the sake of drama and suspense I shall count down from number 5! No. 5 - Debenhams (Rating of 17.5) Please note that Debenhams sells other brands alongside it's own. This scoring of them refers to the company itself and it's own products and practices. Debenhams uses 100% renewable energy to power it's stores[i] and are joint founders of Fast Forward auditing (see below). They also partner with the Salvation Army[ii] to divert waste from landfill. By collecting and donating unwanted clothing, textiles and shoes they also help raise funds for those in need. Debenhams also scored highly in the Good Shopping Guide. No. 4 - Arcadia Group (Rating of 20.5) In fourth place this large retail group includes Topshop, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy Perkins and others. Topshop have a strong animal welfare policy and got shortlisted in 2008 for the RSPCA good business awards[iii] and worked with PETA to campaign against the use of exotic animal skins[iv]. They have also sold limited edition collections of garments made from upcycled fabrics[v]. However, having a 'fast fashion' business model works against them, which is why the Good on You site gives them a rating of 3 out of 5 saying 'it's a start'[vi]. No. 3 - New Look (Rating of 22) Even with cheap price points , New Look is still managing to score highly on ethics. (I wonder if this may be my anomaly, as low prices don't lend themselves to fair wages) They publish a list of their factories and rank midway in the Fashion Transparency Index[vii]. As they have stated recently that they are going to slash prices further[viii], I am not sure how they will maintain this. They also have a good animal welfare policy[ix]. No. 2 - ASOS (Rating of 29) Second place goes to this online only site which is not strictly a high street brand, but it deserves a place in our list. Many of their garments are made in the UK and most of them at the ethically audited factory where our launch collection will be made. In fact they helped to set up, along with Debenhams, a stricter audit system called Fast Forward[x] whose need became arose from the Leicester sweatshop problems noted in the press a few years ago. Not only do they have their own eco edit[xi] they also sell second hand garments[xii] through the site too, thereby encouraging circularity. The sheer volume of their production however, does categorise them as a 'fast fashion' brand which does lower their score. Drumroll please....and the winner is..... No. 1 - Marks & Spencers (Rating of 32) M&S's commitment to sustainability is evident in Plan A[xiii] which has been underway since 2007, years before many others started using the word 'sustainability'. They tick nearly every box for ethical and environmental commitment including having their own sustainable cotton ranges which use BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) cotton ensuring various ethical and environmental guarantees. They are also certified as carbon neutral and have even become a green energy provider[xiv] as well as giving away money to fund renewable energy projects[xv]. Ethical consumer magazine also put M&S in their top 5 ethical high street shops[xvi] and the Fashion Transparency Index rated them at 51%, the highest being 58%. These top two brands are head and shoulders above the rest and will hopefully convince others to follow their lead. Middling… There were 5 brands that came in the middle of the rankings whose scores were less than half of those at the top. Although they are doing some things right, they could do a lot more in my opinion. These were Next, John Lewis, Monsoon, White Stuff and Oasis. And the losers? The bottom five brands in my research in consecutive order were Fat Face, River Island and Matalan with French Connection and Peacocks coming joint last place. Come on guys, you can do better than this! If you do need to buy from the high street always remember that as consumers we can change things for the better with what we buy. Go for the brands 'eco' ranges and do ask questions. Do the garment workers get a fair wage? Does it really need plastic packaging? I hope this helps you to be more informed and conscious shoppers and to help those British brands that deserve our patronage. And lastly, what do you think? Do you agree with my rankings? Are there any surprises there? I would love to hear your thoughts x #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #britishhighstreet
Further reading
[i] https://www.scottishpower.com/news/pages/scottishpower_and_debenhams_sign_100_green_energy_deal.aspx [ii] http://sustainability.debenhamsplc.com/salvationarmy/ [iii] https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion-news/topshop-and-m-s-ethical-fashion-fight-184156 [iv] https://www.thedrum.com/news/2013/03/15/topshop-and-peta-unveil-keep-wildlife-out-your-wardrobe-window-display-flagship [v] https://inhabitat.com/ecouterre/topshop-introduces-upcycled-reclaim-to-wear-collection-for-summer/ [vi] https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-topshop/ [vii] http://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fr_fashiontransparencyindex2018?e=25766662/60458846 [viii] https://metro.co.uk/2018/06/13/new-look-is-wrong-to-slash-prices-consumers-no-longer-want-fast-fashion-7626995/ [ix] https://www.newlookgroup.com/sustainability/animal-welfare [x] https://www.asosplc.com/site-services/case-studies/fast-forward [xi] https://www.asosplc.com/corporate-responsibility/our-products/eco-edit [xii] https://marketplace.asos.com/boutiques/vintage [xiii] https://corporate.marksandspencer.com/plan-a [xiv] https://www.uswitch.com/gas-electricity/suppliers/m-and-s-energy/ [xv] https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/mandsenergyfund [xvi] https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/retailers/top-five-ethical-high-street-shops
Christmas is a time of giving, which mostly means mass consumption and masses of waste. It’s also a time of charity and thinking of others so why not think of the planet this year? You can save money, waste and the planet all at the same time with some of our handy tips.
CARDS & GIFTWRAP “The amount of wrapping paper used for presents is enough to wrap around the equator 9 times”[i] Try to avoid shiny or glittery wrapping paper as this is not recyclable and the glitter contributes to micro plastic pollution. Sustainable alternatives are recycled gift wrap, or re-usable options like wrag wrap or make your own out of scrap fabrics instead. 1 billion cards ended up in the bin in 2016 rather than being recycled.[ii] Why not consider E-cards this year which saves a lot of time and effort and could include a charitable donation? Or otherwise look for charity cards on recycled stock or labelled with the FSC mark. After the festive season remember to recycle them at Sainsbury’s for the Woodland Trust or cut them up to make gift tags for next year. DECORATIONS Why not try making your own decorations? Foraging for holly, pine cones and evergreen leaves is free and if you combine them with candles, oven-dried fruit slices and a little creativity it’s amazing what you can come up with. Check out some ideas here. Reusable crackers can be bought online, but you could also make these yourself with some cardboard tubes, fancy paper and ribbons. Fill them with your own jokes and a few treat and they will be a real surprise on the Christmas table. There are various alternative to the disposable advent calendar. You could invest in a beautiful drawer calendar which you fill with treats every year. (This would even work for more than one child) Or make your own calendar with numbered socks or envelopes with fun family activities for each day instead of chocolate. Another ethical alternative is a reverse advent calendar, whereby you put a small gift of food or toiletries into a box which is then donated to a charity or foodbank. “6 million or 250 tonnes of Christmas trees are discarded every year”[iii] A potted Christmas tree can be reused again and again. But if that’s too expensive then why not do what the Scandinavians do and find some nice branches to put in a pot and decorate instead? If you have a cut tree then you can take to your local waste site for it to be composted. If you can’t get to a site then chop it up and put it in your garden waste bin for collection. And don’t forget the lights… “Approximately 500 tonnes of old Christmas tree lights are thrown away each year, yet many people do not realise that they can be recycled”[iv] GIFTS Rather than more 'stuff' consider experiences instead like; theatre tickets, cinema passes and spa vouchers. Or, if you are short of money why not offer your time or skills instead? An offer of a tasty home-cooked dinner or a promise to walk the dog for a month would be appreciated by many family members. A secret Santa arrangement might work for your family, choosing one person to buy for rather than lots of stuff for lots of people! This can save on money, time and waste too. Make sure to look out for items that have minimal or recyclable packaging. Lush do some great gift sets. If you want to give something back then there are lots of great sites like Good Gifts and Oxfam unwrapped where you can buy a goat for someone in Afghanistan for instance. Buying second hand items at charity shops also means giving back and creating less waste at the same time. We have adopted the Icelandic tradition of Jolabokaflod where we gift second-hand books to the family which are traditionally read in bed on Christmas Eve with some chocolate. If you have the time then everybody loves a hand-made gift. Yummy baked goods always go down a treat and the kids can get involved too. Find some inspiring ideas here. “Within three months, 41 per cent of the toys children receive will be broken. Most will go to the tip.”[v] There are many ethical and green gift options around these days so you don't have to opt for the mountains of plastic on the high street, I have put together a Pinterest board of some of the best gifts for kids here. FOOD & DRINK Try not to use disposable items such as straws, plastic cups and paper napkins. If you are having a party why not invest in some special cloth napkins or make your own from old shirts? Guests could be asked to bring their own glasses or you can borrow them for free them most supermarkets. “Recycling all glass instead of disposing it to landfill would save the CO2 equivalent of taking 1,300 cars off the road for a year.”[vi] Avoid food & drinks in plastic bottles or pots and choose easier to recycle materials such as glass or tins instead. Produce from local greengrocers, farmers markets, veg box schemes or butchers will help to avoid all that excess packaging. Making your own mince pies, xmas cake & pudding also avoid packaging and will always taste so much better or even make great gifts. Remember to use silicone baking sheets and eco wraps for cooking & left overs rather than tin foil and cling film. “Over 2 million turkeys, 74 million mince pies and 17.2 million Brussel sprouts are thrown away every Christmas”[vii] We all over-indulge at Christmas so freeze left-overs and re-use turkey for sandwiches and curries that will see you right through until the New Year. Lastly, try to buy only what you need and not get seduced by all the offers and marketing in the shops. This is easier said than done, I know, but having a list of what you need often helps. Find more zero waste ideas on my Pinterest board here. Let me know if you have any other ideas x Related Content Happy New You! How to have a green Halloween how-to-have-an-eco-ethical-easter.html How to have a Green Easter #zerowaste #ethicalchristmas #greenchristmas
Further reading
[i] https://www.housebeautiful.com/uk/lifestyle/news/a1158/uk-christmas-waste-revealed/ [ii] https://www.housebeautiful.com/uk/lifestyle/news/a1158/uk-christmas-waste-revealed/ [iii] https://www.housebeautiful.com/uk/lifestyle/news/a1158/uk-christmas-waste-revealed/ [iv] https://www.cloudsustainability.com/some-festive-facts-on-waste-management [v] https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/green-living/high-environmental-price-of-a-very-merry-christmas-429635.html [vi] https://www.cloudsustainability.com/some-festive-facts-on-waste-management [vii] https://www.housebeautiful.com/uk/lifestyle/news/a1158/uk-christmas-waste-revealed/ Winter is coming and if it's anything like last winter you'll need to wrap up warm! Here is our selection of the best kids knitwear to keep your little wonders toasty.
#knitwear #kidsknits #scandiknits
Ever since I started out as a teenager doing a summer job in a designer lingerie factory in my home town, I have wanted to manufacture in the UK. Local production boosts home industry and creates a much lower carbon footprint. However, as I have looked at manufacturers to produce my launch collection this year, I have become aware that not all UK garment factories adhere to the ethical standards that I would want.
British sweatshops in the press In January 2017 the Channel 4 Dispatches programme ‘Undercover: Britain's Cheap Clothes’[i] exposed extremely low pay and unsafe conditions in factories in Leicester. In August these problems were highlighted again in an interview with the CEO of New Look which unhelpfully the Times turned into sweeping statements: ‘Many of Britain’s clothing factories have worse ethical standards than manufacturers in China, Bangladesh and Burma, the boss of one the UK’s biggest fashion retailers has claimed.’[ii] As I have worked at a fashion company in Leicester which is just down the road from me this feels very personal. It is unfortunately true that Leicester does have it problems: ‘Typically, the workers being exploited are women from different countries who speak little English. Some come to UK on a six-month visa and work every hour they can before returning home…women who were being paid as little as £1 per hour.’[iii] A widescale problem? The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) investigated the area and found that 26 businesses were issued with a Notice of Potential Liability or a Referral notice between February 2008 and August 2014[iv]. This can be put into perspective with regional industry figures: ‘Leicester has the largest amount of garment workers in the UK – there are 1500 garment manufacturing businesses in Leicester employing over 10,000 people.’[v] It seems to me that this is a small minority who have aroused press interest, which tars others in the industry. Kate Hills, founder of Make It British feels passionately that such generalizations about ethical standards in the UK are damaging. “I've been to hundreds of garment manufacturers in the UK and contrary to what The Times has reported, the MAJORITY are ethical and above board.”[vi] The claims were also rebutted by Nigel Lugg, Chairman of UKFT, the sector skills body for the fashion & textiles industry. “Whilst it is true and deeply regrettable that there are companies in the UK that break the law, there are hundreds and hundreds of factories who offer a safe working environment, pay their staff well and value their staff as their most valuable asset.’ [vii] Who is involved? Many UK retailers now use on-shore manufacturing units to support their global production operations and that number is growing rapidly. M&S employ 317 workers in 4 clothing factories in the UK, including 2 in Leicester. Arcadia Group has 54 factories in the UK[viii] and ASOS source their products from 28 factories employing 1015 people. Jenni Holloway is Director of Fashion-Enter, a social enterprise making garments for high street retailers including ASOS, M&S and John Lewis and who are SEDEX Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA) approved which means its factory is fully compliant. She says: ‘Producing ethically and transparently in the UK is possible and cost effective now. Our factory based in Haringey, North London is proof[ix] What is being done? Ethical issues are being addressed by retailers, the home office and other bodies including the ETI who called for a collaborative approach[x] and coordination of all those involved. A tough new audit for domestic garment manufacturing called Fast Forward was created in 2015 by a group of retailers including ASOS, House of Frazer, River Island and Debenhams. ‘The Fast Forward Programme is an industry initiative to look at social risks in UK manufacturing. The in-depth audit assessments through this programme cover key areas such as right to work, national minimum wage, contracts of employment, tax, mistreatment and health & safety in line with the UK labour law requirements.’ [xi] In March 2015 the UK government legislated the Modern Slavery Act that requires large companies to produce statements identifying risks and showing what steps they are taking to prevent slavery and exploitation within their supply chains. Furthermore, the British Fashion Council launched the High-End and Designer Manufacturers Database in March 2017 ‘which aims to make it easier for designers to gain ethical supply chain certificates and facilitate successful relationships between designers and production units.’[xii] Is enough being done? In my opinion much more needs to be done by all those involved. Some of the legislation and initiatives don’t go far enough as there are clearly still serious ethical issues throughout the industry. But rather than apportioning blame, maybe we all need to take some responsibility? As a designer I will be using Fashion Enter for my manufacturing as I trust them to be an ethical factory and will continue to scrutinize ethics throughout my supply chain. And as consumers we all have a big role to play. Don’t assume something is ethical just because it is made in Britain. Check whether your favourite retailer is part of ethical initiatives like ETI and Fast Forward. Ask them if their factories are audited to SMETA standards. And most importantly, question why a garment is cheap, because there is no doubt that somebody, somewhere is paying the price for it. This article featured last year on the Ethical Brand Directory Blog here. Related Posts Who made my Jeans Pt1 Who made my Jeans Pt2 Save the Children #ethicalfashion #madeinbritain #transparentfashion
Further reading
[i] Sweatshop Britain: Factory workers on £3 an hour 'making clothes for River Island and New Look' by Laura Lambert 23/01/2017 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4146648/Workers-make-clothes-major-brands-3-hour.html#ixzz4zFXQEX2i [ii] British factory standards ‘worse than Asia’ by Philip Aldrick 09/08/2017 https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/british-factory-standards-worse-than-asia-6txnv7bl8 [iii] Did You Know Sweatshops Exist In The UK? By Tamsin Blanchard 23/08/2017 https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/sweatshops-exist-in-the-uk-leicester [iv] A New Industry on a Skewed Playing Field: Supply Chain Relations and Working Conditions in UK Garment Manufacturing by University of Leicester 2014 https://www2.le.ac.uk/offices/press/for-journalists/media-resources/Leicester%20Report%20-%20Final%20-to%20publish.pdf/ [v] Can Leicester get back to it’s garment manufacturing heyday? October 2017 https://makeitbritish.co.uk/made-in-britain-news/leicester-garment-manufacturing/ [vi] THIS ARTICLE IN THE TIMES IS MISLEADING AND MAKES ME SO MAD! By Kate Hills https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/article-times-misleading-makes-me-so-mad-kate-hills/ [vii] Fashion and Textile Manufacturing in the UK 07/09/2017 http://www.ukft.org/newsletter-details.php?page=news&psub=newsletter&nlid=269&perpage=10&nlyear=&nltype=1 [viii] Returning fashion manufacturing to the UK - opportunities and challenges by Hannah Gould 10/06/2104 https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/returning-fashion-manufacturing-uk-opportunities-challenges [ix] The Times Business Clinic with Jenni Holloway 01/08/2017 http://www.fashioncapital.co.uk/services/press-cuttings/15985-the-times-business-clinic-with-jenny-holloway [x] A New Industry on a Skewed Playing Field: Supply Chain Relations and Working Conditions in UK Garment Manufacturing by University of Leicester December 2014 https://www2.le.ac.uk/offices/press/for-journalists/media-resources/Leicester%20Report%20-%20Final%20-to%20publish.pdf/ [xi] http://sustainability.debenhamsplc.com/ethical-trade-programmes/ [xii] Positive Fashion http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/About/Positive-Fashion
As the news that we have lost over 50% of our biodiversity hits me, I know it’s the next generation that will be most affected by this and climate change. So how can we make sure our kids are equipped with the necessary tools to become guardians of the planet?
Where to start? We have a tradition of watching a nature programme together on a Friday Night. There are so many awe inspiring programmes to choose from but we really love the David Attenborough ones best. The behind the scenes part at the end often has an environmental message and serves as a good basis for discussion afterwards. Another easy starting point is reading story books or watching films with your kids that feature different environmental issues. There are a wide range out there and I have put together some of these on my Pinterest boards here and here. Try to relate these issues to real life though so that they are not just fantasy and fairy tale for them. Set an example Young children model themselves on their parents and so being green yourself will influence them greatly. Encouraging them to get involved with reusing, reducing and recycling, and even composting, can be fun and they will engage more if they are part of the process. Using tools such as shower timers and smart meters can help instil good water & energy conservation habits such as switching off lights and stand-by gadgets. My son is very aware of trying to use less plastic, but is still drawn to all the plastic toys in the shops. Consuming less with children is a difficult task as all kids want what their friends have, but the better option is to go for second hand. Young children are far more adaptable to this as the item is new to them anyway. Toy libraries are also a great option for this as are second-hand shops, school and car boot fairs or even swap with friends. In this way, making them aware of the earth’s finite resources and reducing waste from an early age will stick with them into adulthood. Living without a car if you have kids is pretty impossible for most people unless you live in a big city. So although that’s not a practical option we could all use our cars less or even go electric. Walking to school is especially important not just for the environment but also for exercise and to cut pollution. I asked my son’s school to get involved with the Living Streets charity who challenged the pupils to walk to school and guess what? They did! https://www.livingstreets.org.uk/what-we-do/walk-to-school Connect with nature When my brother and I were little, my dad took us out at night to go badger and fox watching. It was so exciting to be out after dark and after a long tense wait, when we had to be very still, we got to see these amazing creatures in their own habitats, playing with their young. This has stayed with me and I believe is part of the reason for my passion for wildlife and the environment. “Children who have an immersive experience in nature between the ages of 5 and 10 foster a deep love of the environment that they carry with them their entire lives”[i] Visiting animal sanctuaries, farms, zoos and wildlife parks allows kids to see animals they otherwise wouldn’t up close. However, I always stress to my son that it’s far better for animals to be out in the wild than captive for our entertainment. Even interaction with a pet can help foster love, respect and empathy for animals. Activities Some kids can be reticent about being drawn away from their screens and games consoles, but fun outdoor adventures such as rock climbing, canoeing and camping can be a great way to entice them out. Even less adrenaline filled pastimes such as gardening, foraging for blackberries or strawberry picking at your local farm is a good excuse to get them outside. There are lots of amazing green spaces in the UK that you and your kids can access such as nature reserves, national parks or even your local park will have an abundance of flora and fauna to explore. Many areas such as these will have birdwatching, forest schools or nature clubs that will offer kids activities such as making bird feeders or pond dipping. Action My son and I do something every year to raise money for the World Wildlife Fund for Nature. We adopt an endangered species and the pack of information, newsletters and the soft toy help to connect him to these animals and understand the hard work that is being done to protect them. Volunteering for beach cleans, litter picks and tree planting can also show kids how we can all help, just as events such as Earth Day raise awareness that community and global efforts can make a difference. How do you try instill a love and respect of nature in your children? We would love to hear from you x Related Posts People Power #ecokids #greenparenting #sustainableliving
FURTHER READING
https://theeducatorsspinonit.com/butterfly-garden-raising-eco-friendly-kids http://www.pbs.org/parents/expert-tips-advice/2016/04/environmentally-responsible-kids/ https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/raise-kids-who-care-about-the-environment_us_5a9715cce4b07dffeb6f530d https://greatergood.berkeley.edu/article/item/how_to_raise_an_environmentalist http://sanjosegreenhome.com/2009/10/22/eco-kids-how-to-raise-true-stewards-of-the-environment/ http://naturemoms.com/blog/2015/10/21/raising-eco-friendly-kids-2/ https://michiganmamanews.com/2018/01/10/time-sensitive-1-10-4-ways-to-raise-earth-loving-eco-kids-guest-post/ [i] https://www.treehugger.com/corporate-responsibility/raising-environmentally-conscious-kids.html Ethics are such an emotive issue and we all have very different ideas of what they should be. The ethical issues in fashion that are most written about are living wages for workers and cotton growers, forced or child labour and safe working conditions. However, for me ethical fashion is not just about people, it’s about the planet too, and so in my opinion, environmental and sustainable practices should be equally in debate. Fashion on a budget These days we all want to pay less for everything as our incomes stagnate or shrink so spending more than we have to is often not seen as an option. “Giving up “fast fashion” is something privileged people can do because privileged people don’t have to agonize about where they shop.” [i] Being on a very limited budget myself I can completely relate to this, but for me ethical fashion isn’t always about spending more, it is always about thinking more. Some would ask “Are ethically produced clothes a privilege for the wealthy?”[ii] Yes, maybe some of them are. Most people associate ethical fashion with Fair Trade or organic clothing produced by the more well-known brands such as Zady, Reformation & People Tree. Most of their clothes are substantially more expensive than a Primark alternative, but for good reasons: they guarantee an ethical and sustainable peace of mind for the buyer. The high cost of ethical fashion is also arguably a misconception. Back in the good old days we had fewer clothes, looked after them and wore them longer. The cheap clothing most of us buy now doesn’t last long, so we buy more of it and sometimes in different colours to suit every mood! Investing in new ethical or even designer pieces from sustainable fashion champions such as Stella McCartney & Vivienne Westwood will set you back a few bob but they will last a lifetime and you will cherish them all the more. If you consider cost per wear then that pretty top from Zara you can’t live without doesn’t seem quite so cheap. The need for the new In the west we are constantly bombarded with sleek advertising for the next new thing, upgrade your phone, get the latest look, keep up with the Kardashians! These fast changing trends are cleverly replicated in the massive turnover of low quality clothing in fast fashion stores encouraging disposability. This craving for the new begs the question “Are new clothes a right or a privilege?”[iii] A 2015 survey found “the average woman typically spends £64 per month - or £768 per year on clothes - most of which are left languishing in wardrobes unworn.”[iv] Surely we have reached peak stuff! In order to live more sustainably every one of us needs to consume less and so this desire for the next new shiny thing has to be challenged. Affordable ethical style Happily, there are so many ethical alternatives that don’t cost the earth (financially and literally!) Second hand shops, vintage fashion fairs and online auction sites, clothes swaps and of course revamping, repairing & renovating what you already have are worthy options. We could replace that joy of finding a bargain in the sales at Zara, with joy at finding a beautiful Dolce & Gabbana coat in a second hand shop for next to nothing (I spotted one recently in a charity shop on my local high street!) Buying from local makers or products that are made in your own country is also another good option. I am not suggesting this from any patriotic or protectionist standpoint but because the carbon footprint of the garment will be lower and be easier to check on whether it’s produced ethically. It helps support the local economy whilst maintaining skills and crafts that may have been around for generations. Most towns and cities will have a Fair Trade shop which often sell ethical clothing alongside their hand crafted ethnic goods. Would it not feel better to line the pocket of a small business or talented craftsperson than a greedy global fashion corporation? Many ethical fashionistas would be horrified at this suggestion but if you really can’t tear yourself away from your beloved fast fashion brands some now have greener lines and initiatives that (although they have a long way to go) are a step in the right direction. H&M’s Conscious collection is made from organic cotton and Zara’s JoinLife range even uses recycled wool. I say this with the caveat of really thinking about the purchase first. Asking yourself if you will get lots of wear out of it, whether it’s versatile and is classic enough to still be worn in 5 years’ time should ensure that it won’t disappear into your wardrobe never to be seen again. I will also add that there are other big brand names such as ASOS who probably deserve your hard earned cash much more: so be brave and step outside of your comfort zone! The real fashion victims If we are debating fast fashion in relation to the ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’ we also have to put it into a global context as the impact of our trend-driven, throwaway culture disproportionately affects the poorest in the world - whether it’s the garment workers who barely earn enough to eat, the 6 year old who stitches sequins on the floor of the factory or the wider communities that are blighted by the effects of climate change. “Those of us who are privileged have more power than we think and are the ones negatively impacting those in the Developed World without even knowing it.”[v] Therefore it is imperative that all of us, irrespective of whether of wealth or lack thereof need to embrace and champion ethical clothing in order to fight fast fashion to help save our planet and all it’s inhabitants. We can all make a difference. This article first featured here on the ethicalbranddirectory.com Related Posts Who made my Jeans Pt1 Who made my Jeans Pt2 Save the Children #EthicalFashion #FirstWorldProblems #SocialIssue
Further reading
[i] The Struggle With Fast Fashion (And Other Problems Of Privilege) – Joni Edelman 30/03/17 https://ravishly.com/2017/03/30/struggle-fast-fashion-and-other-problems-privilege [ii] Is Fast Fashion A Class Issue? Tabi Jackson Gee 27/04/17 http://www.refinery29.uk/2017/04/149877/fast-fashion-social-issue [iii] Is Fast Fashion a Class Issue? Tabi Jackson Gee 27/04/17 http://www.refinery29.uk/2017/04/149877/fast-fashion-social-issue [iv] Throwaway fashion: Women have adopted a 'wear it once culture', binning clothes after only a few wears (so they aren't pictured in same outfit twice on social media)- Maybelle Morgan DailyMail on Facebookhttp://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3116962/Throwaway-fashion-Women-adopted-wear-culture-binning-clothes-wears-aren-t-pictured-outfit-twice-social-media.html [v] First World Privilege Drives Fast Fashion – Saba Ritzvi & Dee All 17/08/16 https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/first-world-privilege-drives-fast-fashion_us_57b072d1e4b03d06fe85146e
Lately, I have been feeling overwhelmed by the state of the planet and tired of fighting what seems like a losing battle. I sometimes think that however I live my life or whatever I say or do will not make any difference especially against the backdrop of global corporate and state-sanctioned destruction of the environment. I often feel like a modern day Cassandra or the weirdo on the street wearing the sandwich board saying ‘The End of the World is Nigh’ who everyone avoids, as so many people don't seem to care or want to know. It feels like there is very little good news right now with the devastating effects of climate change becoming evident through the global summer heatwaves, the vastness of the plastic pollution problem, the recent shocking IPCC report, and so on.
I do put some of this eco-exhaustion down to the fact that I am more informed now than I have ever been. I am consuming news and opinion via news apps and social media several times a day and the more I read the more despondent I become. It seems I am not alone though, that the depressing and frightening messages and information overload that we are bombarded with is now creating ‘apocalypse fatigue’ amongst many people. “If governments or policymakers repeat the same message too often, people just tune out after a while."[i] This is sometimes compounded for me with the environmental and ethical minefield that is everyday life. Is it better to buy local produce or organic food?[ii] Is switching to an electric car a green option if you are selling your old one that will still be polluting the planet? Deciding what to do for the best takes so much effort and is hard work.[iii] So how do we continue fighting the good fight, and engage others in it too? Turning away from some of the news media’s negative reporting could help counteract this problem. It’s not a case of ignoring the threat of catastrophe but oversaturation of it in our information filled world makes us feel helpless. Actively seeking out positive, constructive messaging or at the very least filtering the information we take in can give us hope that we can still do something and that we still have some control. “This fear, this guilt we know from psychology is not conducive to engagement, it’s rather the opposite.”[iv] If you seek out these alternative narratives you can find that, as opposed to the scaremongering in the media, positive change is happening. Although the US did pull out of the Paris Climate Agreement, over half of their population lives in areas that are committed to those goals. Alongside this, renewable energy is going from strength to strength with many countries seeing less reliance on fossil fuels all the time. Trillions of dollars are also being divested every year to add to this booming industry.[v] And what’s more, grass roots activism is become more prevalent now, with people finding their voices on wide range of issues. This has a real potential to change the world as people stand up for what they believe, when they now know that corporates and governments will not do it for them. “One key factor in keeping people enthused in the fight against climate change will be local, collective action…in a group of like-minded people they have the support, accountability, peer pressure and the shared experience of others to help make the change”[vi] Community projects like 10:10 Climate Action turn local into a force for bigger changes. They also gather these stories of hope to inspire others and maintain momentum in the movement. [vii]. Joining others in such projects is a great way to feel part of something bigger and not so alone in our struggles. “We need to change the way we talk about climate change.”[viii] An effective way to approach other people’s disconnection or lack of involvement with environmental problems is changing how we frame such issues. Talking to parents about the effects of pollution on their children’s health or to businesses about energy security makes the problems relevant to them. It’s then not just about polar bears on the other side of the world, but real and tangible. Another way to overcome the psychological barriers to real environmental change is using the power of our own social networks. This is where our small, individual actions do actually count. Behavioural science has proved that knowing what others around us are doing greatly influences us. When environmental actions or messages come from people inside our social networks, rather than scientists or politicians, they have a much more powerful effect. "The ripple effect from person to person doing visible, positive social acts becomes central".[ix] Utilising this could move many people from apathy to action. Using tools like the carbon footprint calculator and sharing your results with friends, family and social media followers may spur others to make their own changes. If you want to measure your footprint try it here: http://footprint.wwf.org.uk/ "Inspiration rather than guilt, then, is the most effective antidote to eco-fatigue.”[x] I hope then that through my blog, the Boy Wonder brand and it’s social media presence and also the way I live my life, I can inspire others to live a greener, more ethical lifestyle. Maybe you can too? And lastly, the best reason to stay positive is…“because hope beats fear”[xi] #climateoptimist #ecofatigue #carbonfootprint
[1] https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-32131142
[1] https://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/3643567/Im-suffering-from-eco-fatigue.html [1] https://adage.com/article/cmo-strategy/avoid-eco-fatigue/130411/ [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=55&v=DkZ7BJQupVA [1] https://www.climateinteractive.org/blog/top-11-reasons-for-climate-hope/ [1] https://www.independent.co.uk/environment/green-living/have-you-got-green-fatigue-402971.html [1] https://1010uk.org/climatehope [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=55&v=DkZ7BJQupVA [1] https://greatergood.berkeley.edu/article/item/how_to_overcome_apocalypse_fatigue_around_climate_change [1] https://www.psychologies.co.uk/self/are-you-suffering-from-eco-fatigue.html [1] https://www.climateoptimist.org/why/ I love autumn. It's such a beautiful season with the leaves changing colour and a time to get cosy with warm jumpers and blazing fires. Here is my pick of the best tops for this season from eco-minded brands . Hope you like them x Reversible Bambi hoody in eco-friendly 100% baby alpaca by Oeuf NYC Sunny Season Sweatshirt in 100% GOTS organic cotton by Nadadelazos Owl Sweatshirt in 100% GOTS organic cotton by Boys & Girls Wild duck sweatshirt in 100% GOTS organic cotton by Mini Rodini #autumnfashion #boysfashion #organiccotton
One of my old friends, Ellen MacArthur, is working with industry, big brands and famous designers to build a circular economy. She very kindly agreed to an interview so that I could find out more for my readers.
Me: Working with global fashion brands seems a world away from competitive sailing, what got you into working with fashion? Ellen: When you sail a boat around the world non-stop you develop a true understanding of what it is to have finite resources. What you have is all you have – there is no more. This understanding of finite led me to think much more broadly, and I began to relate the reality of finite resources on a boat to our global economy. I soon realised that if our economy uses resources up, we do not have an economy that can run in the long term, and I became fascinated by what the solution could look like. In 2010 I launched the Ellen MacArthur Foundation with the goal to accelerate the transition to a circular economy. Me: The circular economy sounds very complicated, what is it and is it achievable? Ellen: In its essence its incredibly simple. It’s the difference between a straight line (the linear economy we have today) and the circle of a circular economy. The three main principles are : -Design out waste and pollution -Keep products and materials in use -And regenerate natural systems. The idea behind a circular economy is that you build an economy which is designed to work in the long term. Products are designed so that even when they reach the end of their use period, they are able to be disassembled and the raw materials recovered and fed back into the economy. In order to do this successfully, different business models, design, marketing, and financing often come into play. Materials are split into two cycles – either biological (those which biodegrade) or technical (plastics and metals for example). It also needs the economy to be powered by renewable energy. Me: In such a throwaway society, what suggestions do you have to my readers to bring more circularity into their everyday lives/how can people get involved with it? Ellen: Our job at the foundation is to ‘shift the system’, so that we can all operate differently in our everyday lives. So that we don’t have to make difficult, and often impossible decisions about what to do with products or plastic waste for example. If everything were designed to fit within a system, be it a plastic bag or a t-shirt, then it's easy to do the right thing. 'Throwaway', I guess, is not 'away' if the material has another life afterwards! Me: After Blue Planet II people became much more aware of plastic pollution, what are your thoughts on education and information to raise awareness of such issues? Ellen: Awareness raising is important, as much work needs to be done, but at the Foundation we see our role as being the catalyst to help to change the system so that plastic packaging for example, never becomes waste. That means for example working with businesses to make sure that plastic is designed differently, to fit either the technical or biological system. Me: I am attempting to buy much less and avoid packaging to reduce waste, but how much impact do you think these individual choices really have? Ellen: Everyone can help to shift the system for sure, but ultimately we need to go to the root cause, and change the materials which enter that system. That means bringing all the organisations involved in plastic - producers, retailers, city leaders, waste management companies - to work to change the system together. Cleaning up the beaches and buying less cannot fix this globally, they are essential, but we need to change how plastic is produced and used, so that it can always have value. Me: What are the main barriers currently to a circular economy in your opinion? Ellen: State of mind! Once we establish that the economy can run in a different way, and be regenerative, then no young person would leave university or school and follow in the linear footsteps we have pursued for so long… Once you ‘get’ circularity, you think differently. Big thanks to Ellen for giving me this interview. We are very inspired by her work to change the system and wish her all the best with it x #makefashioncircular #circulareeconomy #ellenmacarthur
The shapes of our clothes and their details are echoes of our historical dress and have their own fascinating stories to tell. Sometimes sexist, sometimes political and sometimes violent …
Take the handy pocket, where would we be without it? It is unimaginable to think that clothes were once without them, but it is true. The name pocket comes from an old French word ‘poque’[i] meaning bag, which is what a pocket would have essentially been throughout the 19th century. Originally, these bags would carry all essential items and be tied around the waist or hung from a belt. During the 17th century thieves and ‘cut-purses’ meant people had to rethink them being on display and so began to cut slits into their clothes in order to hide their pockets in. It was around this time they began to be called pockets[ii]. As fashions changed and men’s garments became more slim-fitting it was necessary for the pockets to become attached for the slim shape to be maintained. From hereon pockets began to proliferate in menswear with them being added for many different uses such as pocket watches and even tickets. Women’s dress continued the use of separate pocket bags through the 1800s as they could be attached within their skirts. However, these proved to be easy targets for pickpockets until women then began carrying small drawstring bags or ‘reticules’[iii] instead. Thereby, the ladies handbag was created and continued to be the mainstay for women’s fashion onwards. Especially as the slim-line shapes of the 20th century did not work with bulky pockets, the handbag continued its dominance over the humble pocket largely unchallenged. Another common garment constituent part that has a curious history is the hood. The hood has a long history, which at different times has held varied connotations. The word comes from the old English ‘hod’[iv] meaning covering. From ancient times they were seen as a symbol of piety or ceremony: as worn by romans during prayer, cloistered monks and even now by advanced degree graduates[v]. In medieval Europe hoods with short capes were very common and women would often wear a structured gable hood. Chainmail hoods were also a necessity for a knight and as in Inuit dress to protect the wearer from the elements. However, as the nature of the hood can enable the wearer to hide their identity it later become synonymous with roguery. During the 12th century, London was besieged by rioting hooded apprentice boys and so began the hood’s less than saintly symbolism. Young women also used hoods during the 17th century to disguise themselves as they went to romantic assignations. The hoods of the Ku Klux Klan and the hoods of sentenced prisoners add further sinister elements to the hoods history. Therefore, the modern day association with ‘hoodies’[vi] being hooligans is not new idea, but its usefulness will no doubt outlive it’s bad reputation. Another fashion detail with tales to tell is the collar. These were said to appear around 1300 as a piece of linen built into a shirt neck and worn mainly by nobles[vii]. The discovery of starch in the 16th century led to the first real collar of note; the ‘ruff’, which was worn by men, women and children alike. The ruff was a detachable collar made from many yards of fabric, sometimes with up to 600 pleats[viii] and was most famously worn by Queen Elizabeth I. During this time they became high fashion and a symbol of the wearer’s wealth and status. This style fell out of fashion in the mid-17th century due to their high cost of maintenance and impracticality. The detachable collar, similar to the one we know today was created in the 1830s enabling their removal for washing and starching separate to the shirt itself. It wasn’t until the late 1920’s that collars became attached and were the same colour as the shirt. Stylistic changes in shirt collars at this time were seen to be indicative of social status and give us the terms, blue and white collar workers. A white collar worker being an office worker whose collar would not get dirty and a blue collar worker was a manual labourer whose collar would need to hide a dirtier occupation. The band collar is also said to have originated around this time as workers not wearing ties that would get stuck in machinery had no need for a formal starched collar[ix]. This style was later made popular by the Indian Prime Minister, Jawalharlal Nehru in the 1950s and is often named after him. What garment detail do you desire most in your clothes? Are pockets a necessity in your dress, or does a comfy hood or crisp collar appeal to you more? #fashiondetails #historyoffashion #fashionhistory You might also like Monty & the Duffle The Terrific T-shirt Serge de Nimes Woollen Wonders
Resources
[i] https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/hunched-back-exercises/ [ii] https://h2g2.com/edited_entry/A798159 [iii] https://mic.com/articles/133948/the-weird-complicated-sexist-history-of-pockets#.CREfA3EgY [iv] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hood_%28headgear%29 [v]http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/explainer/2012/03/trayvon_martin_killing_when_did_hoods_become_associated_with_illicit_activity_.html?via=gdpr-consent [vi] https://everpress.com/blog/complex-history-hoodie/ [vii] http://theshirtcollar.com/the-interesting-history-of-shirt-collars/ [viii] https://melmagazine.com/the-history-of-mens-shirt-collars-is-all-about-social-class-and-avoiding-laundry-efe9d1e934d3 [ix] https://www.burton.co.uk/blog/the-history-of-the-grandad-collar-shirt/?geoip=home
As things are really starting to take shape here at Boy Wonder and the launch collection is starting to become a reality I thought you might like to have some background on how it has got to where it is now.
RESEARCH All designers will have their own way of working. When I was at college we always started with a mood board. This comes about from research based on the design brief and takes the form of a collage of images expressing and presenting the feel or concept behind the collection. It would include a colour palette and sometimes fabrics, shapes and print ideas too. Often designers will look at what their competitors are doing for research either on a shopping trip or online, as it’s always good to know what’s going on in the industry. I have used Pinterest for many years to put together examples of designs that I like and things that inspire me. However, I wanted my designs to be really original and not like anyone else’s, so although a Scandinavian influence has come through I was careful not to just follow trends and look at things in my own unique way. I have therefore used my childhood and British heritage as the inspiration for my collection. My mood board therefore evokes to me memories of holidays in a caravan in Wales, bright colours of the 1970s, retro TV, playgrounds, Fisher Price Toys and my school days (Oh, so long ago!).
SOURCING
This stage would normally come later on for most designers, but I wanted to use as many sustainable and British-made fabrics as possible, so I realised this had to be done earlier. I knew there would be limited variety of these specialist materials, so it was better to design around them rather than design a collection and find I couldn’t source what I needed for it. Thankfully, there are still some amazing British mills and artisan specialists that embody the quality British craftsmanship that I wanted to incorporate. See Byshee Partnership and Discovery Knitting for more details.
DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT
My design and development was done rather back to front too. In college, students traditionally set out their designs and ideas in a sketch book, but in industry you don’t have that luxury. Having churned out designs on a computer for work for many years, I found it quite difficult to get out of this habit. So, I started off creating my print designs this way and then developed my ideas and garments further in a sketchbook. It was great to get back into sketching again, although I felt quite rusty at first! My collection incorporates the Duffle Coat; a British design classic, hard wearing denim, Scandinavian style knitwear and comfy jersey-wear to cover all the needs of a busy child’s wardrobe. It features original prints with a quirky British twist and some key design details to add interest for the child and parent alike.
SPECIFICATIONS
The collection was finalised on computer with a line-up. This is what it says it is; a line-up of all the selected final garments or outfits in the collection. Technical illustrations are then created, which are like the blueprints of each garment and are used on the specification sheets for the manufacturers. These sheets contain all the necessary information on the garments including; fabrics, construction, stitching and additional components.
PATTERNS
In order for me to draft my patterns I started with garments that had the fit that I liked and took lots of measurements from them. These were then used, with the help of a pattern drafting book, to draft my paper patterns. I haven’t drafted patterns since I finished my Master degree 14 years ago so it was a bit of a steep learning curve! For instance, the duffle coat has 23 separate pattern pieces and uses 4 different fabrics; wool coating, bamboo lining, wadding and interfacing. After the toile stage has tackled any problems or last minute design changes to the patterns, final pattern blocks are cut from card. These are the ones that the factory will then use to cut the samples from.
TOILING
Toiles are prototype garments that are done in a cheap fabric, often cotton calico, to test out the pattern, fit and perfect the design before moving onto sampling in more expensive final fabrics. These are simpler renditions of the garment often not including finishing such as hems or components such as buttons and zips. Cotton calico is a plain, unbleached fabric that makes it easy to spot any problems and also for changes to be drawn straight onto the garment itself. I decided to make some of my toiles out of old clothes to reuse fabric and keep my costs down. This did however, have the effect of me wanting to fully finishing them as the ‘real’ fabric didn’t look right without the top stitching for example. So, I consequently spent longer on these than I really needed to. However, this is an exciting stage as the designs really start to come to life (although my sewing skills were sorely put to the test!)
PRINTING
As most of my garments have a printed element or all-over I have to try these out first too. Some of the printers I have used print off a colour chart on the fabrics first as a guide to get the colours right. Then strike-offs are done - these are test prints on a small amount of the fabric to check on quality and colours before final production printing.
SAMPLING
This is the final stage before full production, where the garments are made up in correct fabrics with all finishing and necessary components. A sample of each size, in each style will also be made up, called a size set, to make sure all sizes fit correctly. Such samples in industry are often used to sell the designs to buyers or for marketing in the press. Sometimes they will go a further stage if the buyer wants changes and then may be called preproduction or shipping samples. These are sometimes sold later by the brand at a discount in a sample sale. Samples will be done for me by the factory I am using as they have all the specialist equipment and are far more skilled than me! I am hoping to be able to start this stage in the next month, so keep reading and following us on social media to keep updated with our progress. Ismay x #creativeprocess #fashiondesign #fashionstartup The summer holidays are nearly here so check out my pick of the sunniest stuff to dress your little wonders in. With bright prints of ice lollies, shades and seaside donkeys they'll be happy even if the sun isn't shining. Hover over the images to see where they are from and click through to their websites to buy. All in super soft organic cotton and so will be kind to their skin and the planet too. #kidsfashion #fashionkids #trendykids
When we think about what fashion will be like in future, most of us will imagine silver space-suit type outfits. However, back in the eighties, we imagined we would all be driving hover cars, which never happened (not where I live anyway!) So how realistic are these design futures? Let’s look at the emerging innovations and the challenges they face to find out.
The future, the planet and all our lives will all be heavily impacted by climate change so it is inevitable that design processes will become sustainability driven due to dwindling resources. Financially, big high street names have suffered recently with massive drops in sales, as they have failed to evolve while our shopping preferences have rapidly changed. Bricks and mortar stores have become increasingly expensive to run with fewer customers to sustain them. This is compounded by online disruptors such as ASOS and BooHoo taking larger market shares by challenging traditional working practices. “There are historic changes happening in the fashion cycle, and at the same time significant technological advancements that are changing the industry”[i] A big growth area in fashion sustainability is textile innovation. As the environmental impact of animal products and synthetic materials are becoming acknowledged, significant research is being made into creating alternatives. Leather substitutes have now been developed from pineapples, mushrooms, apples and tree bark and Bolt Threads[ii] have even invented a spider silk without the spiders. Read a post I wrote before on strange and wonderful textile innovations here. Another area where designers are developing better use of resources is by through rethinking our waste. The fashion industry is incredibly wasteful, being based on the idea of the new, but the practice of circular fashion puts that ‘waste’ back into use. There are now many innovators with exciting recycled fibres and yarns such as Econyl[iii] who reuse abandoned fishing nets and Levis + Evernu[iv] who have created new jeans from old t-shirts. Supply chain transparency will hopefully become industry wide with the use of Blockchain. This is a technology that is used in digital currencies such as Bitcoin and has the potential to give brand and customer the ability to trace every stage of their products journey. There is great hope that this will force better ethical practice within the garment sector. Some designers such as Martine Jarlgaard[v] have already seen success with her ‘smart labels’ “Full transparency and traceability becomes a stamp of approval allowing consumers to make informed choices with no extra effort.”[vi] The automation of sewing machines is a hotly debated topic in the industry right now. As with any talk of automation there is widespread fear of massive job losses which would hit some of the poorest people in the world. Such robotic systems would, however, revolutionise the industry providing reliability and efficiency, while eradicating unethical practices. Production could be increased and waste reduced as less stock would need to be held. Uptake of this technology will lead to far more personalisation and customisation of garments as seen already with Adidas and Uniqlo. “Customers will be able to design or customise their own clothing and then have in produced in automated factories and delivered within days.”[vii] Most designers work to the traditional spring/summer and autumn/winter fashion cycle. However, the digital age has given us an expectation of immediacy. So in the last few years, buyers have wanted to be able to purchase designer collections as soon as the catwalk show has debuted. Only a few brands have been able to deliver this, but it is undoubtedly the way the future is going to look. As the designer, Tom Ford, clearly stated: “The current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers is an antiquated idea, and one that no longer makes sense,”[viii] As wearable tech becomes more widespread the digital world will become part of our clothing itself. Imagine being able to do everything you do on your phone through your jacket for instance? The Levi's Commuter x Jacquard by Google Trucker Jacket already does some of this, so it’s not too far-fetched an idea. The digital space will become a bigger part of our shopping experience, as we have already witnessed with virtual changing rooms. Augmented reality has been utilised by many Zara stores[ix], giving the consumers more opportunity to interact with the brand in a new and exciting way. In store models come to life through the screen of a mobile phone while supporting easy click to buy options. “Augmented reality is going to change the way that the fashion industry creates, showcases and retails its products”[x] As we continue into the unknown future one thing is obvious; for fashion to stay where it should be, at the vanguard of change, designers need to collaborate and technology shared. Engineers, scientists, programmers and other technical experts will have to join forces with designers to tackle some of the big challenges of our times. #fashionfutures #fashionblockchain #textileinnovation Related posts Edible Fashion Design it yourself fashion
Resources
[i] https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/the-state-of-fashion-2017 [ii]https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2016/06/30/the-future-of-fashion-10-wearable-tech-brands-you-need-to-know/#2282255f4220 [iii] http://www.aquafil.com/business-divisions/textile-yarn/ [iv]http://www.levistrauss.com/unzipped-blog/2016/05/11/levi-strauss-co-evrnu-create-first-pair-of-jeans-from-post-consumer-cotton-waste/ [v] https://www.provenance.org/case-studies/martine-jarlgaard [vi] https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2017/05/10/garment-blockchain-fashion-transparency/#20cdacbb74f3 [vii] https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/the-robotics-opportunity-manufacturing-efficiencies [viii] https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/07/fashion/see-now-buy-now-business-fashion-week.html [ix] https://www.standard.co.uk/fashion/zara-to-launch-an-augmented-reality-app-in-its-stores-a3789441.html [x] https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2017/10/31/augmented-reality-is-set-to-transform-fashion-and-retail/#6fd515443151
Since doing the Who Made my Clothes course last year in association with Fashion Revolution, I have become very curious about the journeys that our clothes make. Take the average cheap cotton t-shirt for example; where did it come from, where did it go to and who did it meet along the way? I took up this tale again in the recent course I did and wanted to explore it further with you here.
The protagonist of this tale is the t-shirt itself, which starts it's life in the cotton fields. Up to 99% of the world’s cotton farmers are from developing countries[i]. The majority of cheap conventional cotton (not organic) is grown in the cotton belt of India[ii]. The 3 largest producing states being Gujurat, Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh. Forced and child labour is sadly very common in the cotton industry and India has the highest number of child workers in the world.[iii] You can read more about the children our t-shirt would meet in previous blog posts here and here. As cotton is traded many times before reaching the factory, tracing where it was grown and picked is incredibly difficult. This is why most UK retailers cannot say whether child labour has been used in their supply chain or not. Furthermore, as conventional cotton uses 24% of global pesticides, 11% of all insecticides and seven out of the 15 most deadly carcinogens known to man it is highly damaging to these cotton workers.[iv] After harvesting the cotton bales are transported to processors where it is washed and dried in a gin machine that separates the fibre from seeds and chaff. After this the cotton fibres are carded, combed and blended, often at another factory, before being spun. The cotton yarn can then be knitted into fabric which at this stage is rough and grey looking[v]. The next processing stage involves treatment with heat and chemicals until it looks as we see it in the shops, soft and white. Up to 2,700 litres of water[vi] are used to produce the cotton to make this t-shirt as well as up to 250ml of toxic and hazardous chemicals. Read more on this here. The sewing facility is often in another country. China is currently the largest garment producer in the world[vii], however Bangladesh has the lowest wages at about $65 or £40[viii] a month. As our protagonist is a cheap one, it’s safe to say it probably came from here. At this stage our t-shirt has now travelled over 3190 miles at least, not counting the distance from field to factory and the haulage route before being shipped to the garment factory. Here, the cotton cloth will be cut, stitched and finally pressed until it is the t-shirt we would recognise. You can read more about the people our t-shirt would meet in Bangladesh in a previous blog post here. Now our t-shirt travels the last part of it's journey as it is shipped to the UK, travelling over 10486 miles by sea. If the major cargo ports[ix] were used in each country on the journey then our t-shirt will have travelled well over 14,000 miles in total to reach its final destination of London, England. As it has travelled halfway around the world it will have met many people along the way. Cotton growers and pickers, processing factory workers, haulage drivers, shipping container staff, machinists and finishers and the retail staff who sell the t-shirt to us. Some of these people are the poorest in the world and their hard labour enables us to buy that t-shirt for very little. We've all heard of food miles, but maybe we should start thinking about fashion miles too. Buying locally made goods, including fashion, means you can lower your carbon footprint and often the provenance is clearer too. Ethical manufacturers in the UK look after their workers and keep British craftsmanship and skills alive. Related Posts The Terrific T-shirt Wake Up To Child Labour Who made my Jeans pt2 #fashionmiles #ethicalfashion #fashionfootprint
Resources
[I]https://campaign.worldvision.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Forced-and-child-labour-in-the-cotton-industry-fact-sheet.pdf [ii] https://www.statista.com/statistics/263055/cotton-production-worldwide-by-top-countries/ [iii] https://www.equaltimes.org/child-labour-and-exploitation-in?lang=en#.WyOXmfZFyUk [iv] http://www.ecooutfitters.co.uk/blog/the-environmental-cost-of-non-organic-cotton/ [v] https://makersrow.com/blog/2015/03/from-cotton-to-customer-how-your-t-shirt-is-made/ [vi] https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt [vii] https://www.quora.com/Who-are-the-top-10-garment-manufacturing-countries [viii] https://www.techpacker.com/blog/top-4-asian-countries-for-garment-manufacturing/ [ix] https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-busiest-cargo-ports-in-the-united-kingdom.html
As part of the online Fashion and Sustainability course, created by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion and Kering, that I have just completed, we had to develop our own fashion manifesto and action statement. These are a great way to demonstrate our values, vision and commitments as a sustainable business so thought it would be good to share them with you here. Would love to hear your thoughts on this and hopefully it might inspire you to create a manifesto or statement of your own x
#fashionmanifesto #sustainablefashion #fashionforchange
There are many dirty secrets in the world of fashion and the issue of the destruction of unworn stock is maybe the most hidden. Deadstock is the term for such unwanted stock that has not sold for a variety of reasons; overproduction, defects, poor buying or design decisions and sometimes even the weather.
In 2017 the fast fashion giant H&M was accused of burning 12 tonnes of unsold garments a year. Investigators from a Danish TV show tracked where unsold garments went to and found a waste disposal company in Roskilde. It was here that they witnessed some 30,000 kids and ladies trousers being destroyed. H&M claimed that the garments did not meet their strict safety requirements either due to mould or chemical restrictions and therefore had to be incinerated. However, when tests were done on garments they managed to rescue and compared to identical ones sold in store, they found no difference. It is therefore reasonable to assume this was deadstock that the brand wanted rid of on the quiet. The Swedish brand was previously accused of destroying unwanted garments back in 2010 when clothing that had been cut up with razors had been found dumped on Manhattan streets. After an uproar in the press H&M promised to not do it again, but the Danish disposal company claim to have incinerated 60 tonnes[i] of H&M deadstock since 2013. This has now become such an issue for H&M that they have recently admitted to having $4.3 billion[ii] in unsold clothes. This destruction is sadly a common practice throughout the industry as backed up by many employees of other high street brands, who have been asked to cut up, burn or otherwise destroy unsold garments[iii]. “Potentially 10 million items of clothing become ‘deadstock’ every year. That’s a lot of clothes to miraculously make ‘disappear.’”[iv] Clothing has been found outside Walmart stores with holes punched in it preventing it being worn[v] and Celio, a French retailer[vi] was slammed on social media after cutting up and discarding their unwanted garments. 42.9 tonnes[vii] of clothing, shoes and jewellery were also found to have incinerated by Bestseller, the Danish company behind Vero Moda, Vila and Jack Jones and Radio 4 exposed that jackets and sleeping bags were slashed and binned by the outdoor company, Millets. This is not just a high street problem however, luxury labels are also at it as Orsola de Castro, who is a designer who utilises fashion waste in her work, says: “The issues of incineration when it comes to fashion waste is nothing new. It is something that brands and factories alike have been doing for years. Luxury brands are the worst when it comes to incineration, as they would rather burn unwanted or damaged leather products then sell them as it may damage their reputation”[viii] Some companies give their surplus to outlet or discount stores and some even to charity and staff but these are few and far between. This excess of hidden waste is particularly hypocritical from brands such as H&M who using recycling schemes tell us we need to recycle clothing. More needs to be done to tackle such hidden practices but unfortunately it is a symptom of the fast fashion system. Many of these brands drop new stock into stores every week and this speed and volume is where such problems arise. Purchasing fast fashion is therefore condoning this waste. Ismay x #deadstockdestruction #clothingincineration #fashionwaste
Resources
[i]https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/h-m-accused-of-burning-12-tonnes-of-new-unsold-clothing-per-year/2017101717884 [ii]https://www.philstar.com/lifestyle/fashion-and-beauty/2018/04/12/1805300/hm-breaks-silence-43-billion-unsold-inventories [iii] https://www.ibtimes.co.uk/retailers-burn-clothes-shoes-abercrombie-m-s-517106 [iv] https://www.redress.com.hk/updates/2017/10/20/what-happens-to-clothing-that-goes-unsold [v] https://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/06/nyregion/06about.html [vi] http://www.euronews.com/2018/02/08/french-store-sparks-outrage-for-tearing-up-discarding-unsold-clothes [vii] https://www.powerretail.com.au/multichannel/hm-burns-unsold-stock/ [viii]https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/burning-apparel-deadstock-sadly-waste-is-nothing-new-in-fashion/2017101926370
As an assignment for the Fashion & Sustainability course I am currently doing through FutureLearn, we have been asked to undertake a wardrobe audit. Doing an exercise like this, like a food or money diary, can really make you stop and think about your consumption habits. I decided to share the findings with you to get you to think about just how many clothes you have. I expect it's more than you think!
I have never had a lot of money to spend on clothes, so I was amazed to find that I have over 100 garments in my two wardrobes (spring/summer and autumn/winter) and a nearly another 100 garments in my chest of drawers and coat hooks. This includes nightwear, sportswear and swimwear, but not underwear, shoes or accessories such as scarves etc. My excuse is that I am fashion designer, so I am naturally a hoarder of clothes! My oldest garment is actually only 14 years old, this is due to the fact I have moved around a lot, so would often give lots to charity while packing to move. Just imagine how many I would have had if I still had those! I still sometimes wish I had kept some of those older items as fashion is cyclical and so some would have come back into fashion. As I work from home, the clothes I wear the majority of the time are pretty casual; jeans and a jumper (of which I have 18!) mostly. Generally, when I get something new I will wear it all the time and then get bored of it, so most casual stuff gets a lot of wear. At a guess, only about a ¼ of my wardrobe has been worn in the last 6 months. Some items were gifts, some were work samples, some were passed on to me and a couple were my late husband’s that I like to wear to remind me of him. Most of my clothes are from the high street and a lot from fast fashion brands so not of great quality unfortunately. Sadly, I do have 5 items that have never been worn. Most of these are new, so I haven’t had the opportunity to wear them yet, but the others I shall endeavor to sell and learn from my mistakes! (I have to confess that I already have a pile of clothes to sell that I haven't included in these numbers, oops!) I have always passed on unwanted clothes to charity, clothing banks, store recycling schemes or onto family. I would never put clothing in the waste bin, but I am aware that recycling is not the solution. I have a big thing for dresses and have over 40 of them, and most of them are summery ones, so in the British climate they don't get out much! I also have 10 coats, and 8 jackets which seems like a lot, but most have particular functions and get worn a lot in our weather (excuses, excuses!). I only have 6 pairs of jeans which is below the average, and in fact I mostly wear one pair nearly all the time! These ethical jeans are the most expensive garment I own, yet cost per wear would be very low. I have 23 casual tops/t-shirts in my drawers (a lot of which seem to be striped) and I also have 25 going out/dressier tops too, so I will have to cut down on those! I was surprised by how many items I estimate that I have only worn once or twice; 51 garments which is about a ¼ of all my clothes! These are mainly dressier items worn to weddings, funerals or for going out. These seem to be the majority of what I have in my wardrobes, so I am looking at selling on some items on Depop. Some things I am considering adapting in some way to make them more likely to be worn. I have already done this with several items by dying, shortening or changing the fit. Since the start of 2017 I took up the idea of slow fashion after blogging about it for some time. This meant being really conscious about what I am buying and I can see that has had a big effect. I have mainly bought second hand garments, a couple of high street essentials and a couple of ethical brand items in that time. In comparison to the previous year the number of garments I bought last year has halved as did the amount spent. I love the idea of having a minimalist capsule wardrobe of classic styles, which is effortlessly stylish and means you don't have to spend ages deciding what to wear. However, as a fashion designer I really need more variety than this. That said, I am trying to buy more classic items now and stay away from trends as these can look outdated very quickly. The item that holds the most emotional value for me is probably a green floral dress that I bought when we lived in Sweden. I have a particular memory of wearing it to the Midsommar celebrations and dancing around the maypole with my late husband and our son. I have worn it many times since and always makes me feel great and reminds me of happy times. In the last few years I have been using the Stylebook app on my phone to help organise my wardrobe and plan outfits. You take or download a picture of the garment and input all its details. It will then give you stats on how often you wear them, how many you have, cost per wear, outfit suggestions and what is most and least worn and much more. It also helps me to see what I need to complete outfits and so extend a garment’s wearability, rather than just impulse buying stuff that won’t get worn. I would like to go into more detail on my wardrobe audit at some point (when I have more time) to see where most of the items are made and what fabrics they mainly are. This would give me a better idea of the social and environmental impact that my clothes shopping has had. Is your wardrobe bursting at seams like mine? Could you become a more conscious fashion shopper too? Let me know what you think x #wardrobeaudit #slowfashion #consciousconsumption
What do your clothes say about you?
We all know that what we wear says a lot about us, but most of do not realise just how much it actually reveals. Our attire can convey meaning in very obvious ways such as how wealthy we are to what religion we follow, but there are many other subtle ways that also have a great impact on how were are perceived and consequently treated. We hope that when put on a smart suit we will be taken more seriously, but maybe feel this is just wishful thinking. However this is indeed evidenced by research done by Northwestern University who found that: “women who dress in a masculine fashion during a job interview are more likely to be hired, and a teaching assistant who wears formal clothes is perceived as more intelligent than one who dresses more casually.”[i] These perceptions are made within seconds and are based on highly complex social and cultural cues that we begin to absorb from a very young age such as economic and social indicators. “After just a 3-second exposure people judged the man more favourably in the bespoke suit. And the judgements were not about how well dressed he was”.[ii] Inversely, these assumptions can work in a negative way too especially in relation to the workplace, which just goes to show how important it is to dress to impress. How do clothes make you feel? The deeper meaning in clothes can also affect how you feel about yourself. We know this from a favourite dress that makes us feel great or a jumper that comforts us. These powerful associations are revealed in testing done by Professor Karen Pine in her book ‘Mind What you Wear’ which showed that wearers feeling of superiority and strength increased whilst wearing a superman t-shirt against others wearing plain t-shirts. Amazingly though, clothes can also actually affect your behaviour. This is especially seen when clothes that have strong symbolic meaning are worn. Psychologists term this as ‘enclothed cognition’. “. . . the current research explored the effects of wearing a lab coat. A pretest found that a lab coat is generally associated with attentiveness and carefulness. We therefore predicted that wearing a lab coat would increase performance on attention-related tasks.”[iii] The tests showed that the wearer’s attentiveness and carefulness actually increased upon wearing a white lab coat, against wearing the same coat which was instead described as a painter’s coat. So why do we choose the clothes we do? There are a multitude of reasons why we choose certain clothes, some conscious and others not. Often it could simply be the weather, our upbringing or maybe they are a means of self or political expression, or possibly to attract a mate or identify with our tribe. But emotional reasoning is often not so obvious. Research shows a link between dressing in baggy clothes or jeans and depression or low self-esteem. At such times we are trying to blend into the crowd and not wanting to draw attention to ourselves. However, as Professor Karen Pine also revealed; clothes are not only a reflection of how we feel, but can also influence how we feel then maybe we should rethink those comfort clothes and become what we wear instead. “The strong link between clothing and mood state suggests we should put on clothes that we associate with happiness, even when feeling low,”[iv] What are your thoughts on the hidden meaning behind clothes and how they makes us feel? Ismay x #fashionpsychology #psychologyofclothes #youarewhatyouwear
Further reading
[1] “Mind Games: Sometimes a White Coat Isn’t Just a White Coat” by Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University in Journal of Experimental Social Psychology - https://sloanreview.mit.edu/article/what-you-wear-can-influence-how-you-perform/?utm_source=twitter&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=sm-direct [1] https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/do-something-different/201304/what-your-clothes-might-be-saying-about-you [1] “Mind Games: Sometimes a White Coat Isn’t Just a White Coat” by Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University in Journal of Experimental Social Psychology - https://sloanreview.mit.edu/article/what-you-wear-can-influence-how-you-perform/?utm_source=twitter&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=sm-direct [1] Flex: Do Something Different by Professor Karen Pine https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/karen-pine/personal-appearance-and-branding_b_5357853.html |
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